Despite the fact that I don’t live in Brighton anymore, it’s not often a new opening escapes my attention nor that of the food glitterati. Except the newly opened, 14 days at the time of writing, Wolfies Kitchen. Everyone and their granny has heard of Wolfies of Hove; its reputation is impeccable with punters and critics alike.
Now, they’ve delved into, essentially, the brunch market. North of Church Road there is very little in the way of quality breakfast spots: a market Wolfie has now cornered. Just a few doors up from their chippy (my review of which you can find here) their new cafe sits serving all day breakfasts, some beaut looking hashes and egg specials along with some other lunch choices.
We were there midday and greeted by a super friendly waitress who advised (quietly) that there would be a table in about 15 minutes and we were welcome to wait in the window with a coffee; we accepted. If you’ve gotta wait it’s gonna be good (hopefully!).
The interior, like the chip shop, is simple and cool, sleek and modern.
Two of us went for the Big Breakfast and one went for the regular sized one.
Their decaf coffee, by the way, was outstanding – none of the ‘burnt’ taste you often get with decaf. The coffee is from Pharmacie Coffee Roasters and the decaf is a ‘sparkling water decaf from Londrina, Brazil’ I might need to put some on my Christmas list if they sell it to non-trades. They also serve water on the table as standard which is always a nice touch.
The regular breakfast came out and looked very generous – I had ordered the Big one but would have been happy with this one if it had been served to me.
Two sausages, two bacon rashers, two mushrooms, two pieces of black pudding, homemade potato hash, tomato, beans AND two poached eggs. Phew, I’m exhausted just writing it all!
The beans were regular beans, the tomato and mushrooms nice. The toast was really good with proper butter and I ate both slices despite being full just so I could get the butter! The eggs were slightly overcooked but the quality was evident (and the place was packed so I can forgive them for leaving my eggs in for 30 seconds too long). The stars that sung from the plate, however, were most definitely the meat – fresh, top quality – and their homemade hash. It’s unlike Joe’s and Billie’s and is more ‘crushed’ potatoes which are then fried or fried potatoes which are then crushed? A touch of onion and possibly some whole grain mustard in there? Dunno but they are cracking. The only real disappointment was that the black pudding was really dry and I had to leave most of it.
The customer service was excellent and that monster breakfast cost £8.50. Yes, really. The regular breakfast is about £6/£6.50 which is also amazing value. And of course they have HP brown sauce and Heinz Ketchup.
So ladies and gentlemen, I think we have a really strong contender for another best breakfast joint in Brighton, well Hove, actually.
For those less catered for north of the railway line, Wolfies now has them sorted. Word is spreading fast so get down there before the rest of the crowd!
Wolfies Kitchen, Goldstone Villas, Hove
💛 the wee food blogger